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Tea In Tangier

a journey to tangier, assilah, & the countryside inbetween

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tea in essaouira . . .

We are thinking about meandering up the coast to Essaouira this summer and thought it would be good to get some inside information – maroc-o-phile Lynn Sheppard  is lucky enough to live there, and seemed like the perfect person to ask!
If you come to Essaouira on a warm, sunny day then you’ll probably want to spend it on the beach.
 If however, you were to be here on one of its reputed breezier days, how might you spend it?
Check out local art…. Head into the Rapunzel’s turret that is the Bastion Est, managed by local artist Ahmed Harrouz.
Climb up to the roof and admire the view over the Atlantic Ocean and the bustling port.
 It’s one of the best – but least known – viewpoints of the city.
 If art is your thing, check out the local naïve style at the gallery on rue Houmman el Fatouaki in the Mellah Kdim.

 

 It’s opposite La Decouverte, which is a great spot for lunch, serving daily specials of homemade dishes of locally-sourced ingredients.

via

Pause for a coffee….. at Ginger, run by an Argentinian couple and serving fresh juices, smoothies and salads (Rue Ibn Rochd in the Kasbah).

 For something a bit more “local”, check out chez Bachir on the main square – his is the café nestled in against the wall and enclosed by a series of awnings. If mint tea isn’t your thing, order a nouss nouss (literally, half-half espresso and milk).

Surely by now it’s time for lunch?
Essaouira’s blue flouka fishing boats set off at sunset to chug 6 hours into the Atlantic.
via
 They fish for 5 hours and arrive back at the port around midday.
  Souiris (as the locals are known) believe sardines are best eaten immediately.
 Buy them at the quayside or in the fishmarket (Souk Jdid) for around 5dh a “packet” (5-6 fish), pick up some lemon, tomato and cucumber from the veg souk, and head over to one of the many BYO restaurants on the other side of the main road to have them grilled.
 I recommend Mohammed at the Tamilalte kitchen – there’s even a little roof terrace.
If you feel the need for a postprandial stroll… Take a walk along the ever-improving seafront promenade. About half an hour out of town, you’ll find a parade of cafes and watersports schools plus some camels, quad-bikes and horses for hire.
All the cafes are good: Beach & Friends caters to a trendy sun worshipper crowd;
Panoramique does great coffee and fills up with locals and kite surfers;
Ocean Vagabond is a bit more upmarket, in a lovely garden setting and great for families.
via

 My favourite is Café Tamouziga. The pizzas are great and the sunloungers are free.

If you still have the energy, it’s worth the walk on into the village of Diabat: not to visit the alleged pausing point of Jimi Hendrix but rather the beautiful ruins of the Sultan’s Palace, slowly being reclaimed by the dunes. It’s a fabulous setting for sunset, but you’ll need a torch to find the road again and you might not easily get a taxi back into town.

For an out-of-the-ordinary souvenir…. Try the Sunday flea market (joutiya) for second hand carpets, crafts and other items.
 Check out the Mashi Mushki shop on Rue Chbanate for gifts with a social conscience – it’s run by the same people as the Dar 91 rental property and they encourage you to “leave your wardrobe in Morocco” so they can sell your unwanted clothes in their Project 91 shop.
Sunsets over the Atlantic are the best…. And best enjoyed with a beer in hand.
Try the vantage point of the Barcelona bar beside Chalet de la Plage – it’s cheap, cheerful and filled with a mix of locals and backpackers. For a different perspective (and budget), Il Mare overlooks the medina fortifications (skala) and has an early evening 2-for-1 deal on drinks.
The best setting for dinner is…. Elizir. It’s well-reviewed and often full – book in advance. If Sophia Loren was your granny, this would be her front room (Rue Agadir).
via
 Teeny tiny and less well known (so far) is Vague Bleue off Souk Waka (Rue Mohammed el Quory), which serves excellent Italian food at extremely fair prices for lunch or dinner, with appetisers and fresh smoothies thrown in. Both restaurants offer plenty of alternatives to tajine!
Surely you’re tired by now? New kid on the block, Dar Mouna Mogador, is rapidly embodying the Souiri artistic vibe and is run by travel industry veteran and general font of all local knowledge, Jane Folliott. Double rooms are priced at 600dh for a double including breakfast on the roof terrace.

 If you fancy treating your other half to a romantic getaway, check out the roof-top Suite Chbanate at Riad Chbanate with nigh-on 360° views, including from the bath!

Lynn Sheppard
www.maroc-o-phile.com
info@maroc-o-phile.com
FB/marocophile
 
 

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It's Sunday – take a seat, put your feet up…#tea
It's Sunday - take a seat, put your feet up...#teaintangier #atayinassilah

When you are wandering through shops sourcing for
When you are wandering through shops sourcing for a client and you see something you might just have to keep for yourself...#elcafeto #vintageadvertising

Ola Valencia…
Ola Valencia...

Trucks getting sent south from the medina today…
Trucks getting sent south from the medina today...every little bit helps ❤️❤️

Lunch with a view…at Casa José ❤️
Lunch with a view...at Casa José ❤️

Adding to the armoire in @dar_ambrosia with some o
Adding to the armoire in @dar_ambrosia with some organic aromatherapy loveliness from @wearenomadspirit - it smells wonderful... lavender,citronella, rosemary - all grown,picked and distilled here in #Assilah

Friday evening slow down…#lifeinthemedina
#assil

Friday evening slow down...#lifeinthemedina
#assilah #asilah

There is a definite theme emerging as I collect a
There is a definite theme emerging as I collect a few of my favourite things from Morocco and further south  for you to shop at your leisure in @dar_ambrosia - the cushion covers hand painted with henna are my latest favourite thing ...and those straw hats from Senegal ❤️#shouf #shop #handmade

Nothing quite as enticing as an an empty armoire..
Nothing quite as enticing as an an empty armoire...this beautiful leather and brass chest of drawers sits in the little library room at @dar_ambrosia and I am going to start filling it with treasures both woven and otherwise that have caughty eye in undiscovered corners - a little curated curiosity for guests to shop...watch this space!!!


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