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Tea In Tangier

a journey to tangier, assilah, & the countryside inbetween

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tea in essaouira . . .

We are thinking about meandering up the coast to Essaouira this summer and thought it would be good to get some inside information – maroc-o-phile Lynn Sheppard  is lucky enough to live there, and seemed like the perfect person to ask!
If you come to Essaouira on a warm, sunny day then you’ll probably want to spend it on the beach.
 If however, you were to be here on one of its reputed breezier days, how might you spend it?
Check out local art…. Head into the Rapunzel’s turret that is the Bastion Est, managed by local artist Ahmed Harrouz.
Climb up to the roof and admire the view over the Atlantic Ocean and the bustling port.
 It’s one of the best – but least known – viewpoints of the city.
 If art is your thing, check out the local naïve style at the gallery on rue Houmman el Fatouaki in the Mellah Kdim.

 

 It’s opposite La Decouverte, which is a great spot for lunch, serving daily specials of homemade dishes of locally-sourced ingredients.

via

Pause for a coffee….. at Ginger, run by an Argentinian couple and serving fresh juices, smoothies and salads (Rue Ibn Rochd in the Kasbah).

 For something a bit more “local”, check out chez Bachir on the main square – his is the café nestled in against the wall and enclosed by a series of awnings. If mint tea isn’t your thing, order a nouss nouss (literally, half-half espresso and milk).

Surely by now it’s time for lunch?
Essaouira’s blue flouka fishing boats set off at sunset to chug 6 hours into the Atlantic.
via
 They fish for 5 hours and arrive back at the port around midday.
  Souiris (as the locals are known) believe sardines are best eaten immediately.
 Buy them at the quayside or in the fishmarket (Souk Jdid) for around 5dh a “packet” (5-6 fish), pick up some lemon, tomato and cucumber from the veg souk, and head over to one of the many BYO restaurants on the other side of the main road to have them grilled.
 I recommend Mohammed at the Tamilalte kitchen – there’s even a little roof terrace.
If you feel the need for a postprandial stroll… Take a walk along the ever-improving seafront promenade. About half an hour out of town, you’ll find a parade of cafes and watersports schools plus some camels, quad-bikes and horses for hire.
All the cafes are good: Beach & Friends caters to a trendy sun worshipper crowd;
Panoramique does great coffee and fills up with locals and kite surfers;
Ocean Vagabond is a bit more upmarket, in a lovely garden setting and great for families.
via

 My favourite is Café Tamouziga. The pizzas are great and the sunloungers are free.

If you still have the energy, it’s worth the walk on into the village of Diabat: not to visit the alleged pausing point of Jimi Hendrix but rather the beautiful ruins of the Sultan’s Palace, slowly being reclaimed by the dunes. It’s a fabulous setting for sunset, but you’ll need a torch to find the road again and you might not easily get a taxi back into town.

For an out-of-the-ordinary souvenir…. Try the Sunday flea market (joutiya) for second hand carpets, crafts and other items.
 Check out the Mashi Mushki shop on Rue Chbanate for gifts with a social conscience – it’s run by the same people as the Dar 91 rental property and they encourage you to “leave your wardrobe in Morocco” so they can sell your unwanted clothes in their Project 91 shop.
Sunsets over the Atlantic are the best…. And best enjoyed with a beer in hand.
Try the vantage point of the Barcelona bar beside Chalet de la Plage – it’s cheap, cheerful and filled with a mix of locals and backpackers. For a different perspective (and budget), Il Mare overlooks the medina fortifications (skala) and has an early evening 2-for-1 deal on drinks.
The best setting for dinner is…. Elizir. It’s well-reviewed and often full – book in advance. If Sophia Loren was your granny, this would be her front room (Rue Agadir).
via
 Teeny tiny and less well known (so far) is Vague Bleue off Souk Waka (Rue Mohammed el Quory), which serves excellent Italian food at extremely fair prices for lunch or dinner, with appetisers and fresh smoothies thrown in. Both restaurants offer plenty of alternatives to tajine!
Surely you’re tired by now? New kid on the block, Dar Mouna Mogador, is rapidly embodying the Souiri artistic vibe and is run by travel industry veteran and general font of all local knowledge, Jane Folliott. Double rooms are priced at 600dh for a double including breakfast on the roof terrace.

 If you fancy treating your other half to a romantic getaway, check out the roof-top Suite Chbanate at Riad Chbanate with nigh-on 360° views, including from the bath!

Lynn Sheppard
www.maroc-o-phile.com
info@maroc-o-phile.com
FB/marocophile
 
 

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And the joy of giving yourself fresh new white wal
And the joy of giving yourself fresh new white walls means a new space to put those familiar images and items and bring a little of your own history into a new space - with my favourite @dar_fatyme cushion in pride of place along with beads and prints from South Africa and woven throw from the north - the question is....how long will I be able to avoid the temptation of adding colour?? I already have some ideas bubbling under the surface!! #decoratinginblackandwhite

The end of 2020 involved a move up a mountain (lit
The end of 2020 involved a move up a mountain (literally and figuratively) so as we start the year with fingers crossed and looking forward to be able to get back to our place in the sun in Assilah we are also working  out a restructuring of our lives that will allow for flexibility and change in 2021 - here's hoping....so from my corner on a Welsh mountainside to yours, best wishes for 2021 x

Looking back & moving forward
#top9of2020
#teain

Looking back & moving forward
 #top9of2020 
#teaintangier 
#timetotravel

'tis the season ….
Merry Happy to you all
X

'tis the season .... 
Merry Happy to you all
X

It's always great to see one of the handwoven piec
It's always great to see one of the handwoven pieces I've chosen from the fondouk in Tangier being used and loved in its new home - and most importantly, Esther approves! Thanks @filmtvdesign for the  pic 💙
#madeinmorocco #artisansofmorocco #handwoven #teaintangier  #tangier #tanger #dogsofinstagram #shoppingandsourcing

Beautiful colours from pastels through to warm ora
Beautiful colours from pastels through to warm orange in this morning's #boucherouite. DM for more info and price
#madeinmorocco # teaintangier #moroccancarpets #bohointeriors #bohostyle

A large latte-coloured vintage Boujaad carpet thi
A large  latte-coloured vintage Boujaad carpet this morning to remind you that all the carpets we have posted here this month are available on my Tea in Tangier Etsy page (link is in bio) 
Size: 365cm X 165cm
#vintagecarpet #madeinmorocco #handwoven #moroccancarpets #moroccantextiles #teaintangier

Over the last week I have been posting some
carpe

Over the last week I have been posting some 
carpets that I love - a range that show the diversity of colours, designs and weaves that make the stories behind these carpets so compelling. These carpets are available and can be wrapped up in the medina and be underfoot in your home in a matter of days - please feel free to DM me with any questions about size (I have put dimensions on posts) quality, price etc
Also - if there is something specific you are looking for re size, colour etc - let me know and we can see what we can find for you xx 'tis the season after all....

More of a scarf than a shawl at this time of year
More of a scarf than a shawl at this time of year ...just in case you are (a lot) more organized than me and have actually started your Christmas shopping I thought I would let you know that I still have some of our ATAY and TUAREG silk @tintshawls scarves available on my website (link in bio) Handwoven in Tangier by the weavers at @darnaofficial. #christmasshopping #silkscarf #madeinmorocco #ethicalfashion #tintshawls


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